Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
